Clinical Studies

Advanced Natural Lightening Face Oil

Contains Naolys Inside Light Poet’s Narcissus® an innovative plant (strain of) cells from a legendary plant poet’s narcissus. 100% whole pure plant cells deliver the highest amount of original active molecules, proven to prevent and reduce blemishes and lighten skin tone, due to its action on different stages of melanogenesis.

Scientific Data

Skin pigmentation occurs due to Melanin. Melanin is produced by cells called melanocytes. The melanocytes produce little sacks which contain melanin: the melanosomes. It is then transferred into surrounding keratinocytes which transport it to the skin’s surface.

The synthesis of melanin begins with the synthesis of tyrosine, an amino acid, supplied by the blood, which is catalysed by enzymes, including tyrosinase.

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus reduces the synthesis of melanin in melanosomes by reducing both the synthesis of tyrosine and tyrosinase activity.

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus decreases the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes.

In Vitro Results

• Decreases the neosythesis of tyrosine by 13%
• Decreases Tyrosinase activity by 18% after induction of MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone)
• Decreases Melanin in keratinocytes by 17% in response to UVB

Advanced Natural Anti-Ageing Face Oil

Naolys InitialE [PT+TMG]® is 100% whole pure plant cells, combining tuberose cells with betaine (trimethylglycine or TMG). This active biotechnological complex evens out skin tone, reduces fine lines and puffiness and increases micro-circulation. Its multifunctional ability means it’s also moisturising and has the capacity to restore the skin’s barrier due to its lipid restoring effect for a firmer complexion and a radiant new look.

Scientific Data

Naolys’ objective with this new plant cell complex, that combines tuberose cells with betaine (trimethylglycine or TMG) inside.

Tuberose is a white heliotrope flower that originated in Mexico and was introduced to Europe in the 16th century; it is now cultivated in India, North Africa and China.

Betaine or TMG is an amino acid found in various foods like beets. Its unique molecular structure allows it’s to interact with water and gives it the ability to retain water and provide superior hydration to the skin.

Enriching a plant cell in this way increases the bioavailability of all the active molecules that it contains.

In Vitro Results

• Moisturising effect due to an increase in water retention in the epidermis.
• Decrease in trans epidermal water loss.
• Lipid restoring effect as a result of 24% increase in free fatty acids.
• Firming effect- due to increase in the synthesis of the major components of the extracellular matrix, proteoglycans (average 27%), collagen (22%), elastin (26%) and GAGs (25%).
• Soothing effect – due to a decrease in the expression of inflammation mediators, IL1-alpha (-26%), IL-6 (-23%) and PEG2 (-24%).
• Detoxifying effect- due an increase in micro-circulation (decrease in nitric oxide of 24%) and a 24% and 28% increase in cellular respiration.

Advanced Natural Sebum Balancing Face Oil

Naolys Pure Light Chinese Peony® is 100% whole pure plant cells, which regulates sebum production and decreases the shine by a deep action on a key enzyme in the epidermis cells. A radiant tone results from improved cell respiration which induces the elimination of toxins. Despite reduction in sebum, hydration is maintained with these innovative cells as Pure Light Chinese Peony keeps water in the epidermis, stimulates NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) levels and the quality of the hydro-lipid film in the corneous layer.

Scientific Data

Chinese Peony is an herbaceous plant native to central and eastern Asia. It grows slowly in the woods and has been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine for centuries.

Naolys Pure Light Chinese Peony acts on different levels of epidermis before and after the surproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Firstly, it limits the quantity of the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase, which is at the origin of the activity of the hormone responsible for the production of sebum. To avoid the desquamation of the epidermis in its surface, it reinforces the water circuit and the water storing in the epidermis. Finally, it limits the release of IL-6, the inflammation mediator and the substance P, a neuropeptide, that appears when sebum is produced, and, it improves cell respiration, that induces the elimination of toxins. Thanks to those actions, skin retains its balance and its function: the general protection of body.

In Vitro Results

Mattifying effect: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5%

• Significant reduction in 5α-reductase respectively by 16%, 20% and 23% compared with finasteride, that induces an inhibition of 38%.

Effect on cell respiration: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5%

• Increase of the release of 14CO2 respectively by 17%, 22% and 26% in physiological conditions. Increase of the release of 14CO2 respectively by 20%, 28% and 31% in conditions of asphyxia.

Soothing effect: at 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5%

• In reaction of UVB, decrease of the release of the mediator of inflammation, IL-6 respectively by 19%, 26% and 31%.
• Inhibition of the liberation of substance P, respectively by 20%, 25% and 29% compared with the untreated control.
• Inhibition of the fixation of substance P on its receptor respectively by 17%, 21% and 24% compared with the untreated control.

Moisturizing effect: at 0.1%

• Increase of water storing in the dehydrated epidermis by 28% at T0+15 min, and by 33% at T0+30 min.
• Decrease of the trans-epidermic transfer of the tritiated water by 30% at T0+15min, by 25% at T0+3min and by 22% at T0+60 min

Plant Cell Technology

Naolys® Pure plant cell biotechnology is a process by which a pure plant cell culture is produced by using only a few millimetres from the plant. This biotechnology enables development of active plant cells from rare and precious plants, legendary or unknown, difficult to cultivate, but always efficient and without any genetic engineering. Due to a clean room environment these cells contain no impurities from pesticides or atmospheric pollution.

Our new high-tech face oils combine Naolys® pure plant cells (technology) with our unique blend of multi-functional and nutrient rich actives, a complete solution to achieving a radiant complexion.

Climate Responsive Technology

Our Advanced Natural Skincare and Natural Body Lotion have been formulated using natural ingredients combined with a unique emulsifier which responds to the climate, so you no longer need to switch your skincare as the seasons change!

An innovative sensorial emulsifier. Based on patented technology that transforms and functionalises natural waxes. Automatically adapts to the local environment, hot/humid/cold/dry, guaranteeing pleasure for all users.

Created from natural ingredients using green chemistry. Beeswax and Jojoba wax are reacted with vegetable polyglycerol.

Key Benefits

• PEG free and COSMOS approved Natural
• Auto – adapts to local climate and seasons
• Has anti-pollution effect
• Fine and light sensation on the skin
• Low greasiness
• Leaves skin feeling smooth and comfortable
• Soft and non-occlusive

DEFENSIL®-PLUS

DEFENSIL®-PLUS is an innovative natural complex that soothes inflammation as it nips inflammatory processes in the bud. It also regenerates and strengthens the skin barrier.

DEFENSIL®-PLUS consists of

Black Current Seed Oil which contains linoleic acid which is crucial in the formation of ceramide 1, has barrier strengthening and anti-inflammatory activity, it’s also rich in stearidonic acid which prevents formation of pro-inflammatory leukotrienes through inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase and ꝩ -linolenic acid which promotes the formations of anti-inflammatory prostaglandins.

Balloon Vine Extract is a tropical climbing plant rich in phytosterols, flavonoids, saponins and tannins. The phytosterols inhibit phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase-2 which results in reduced inflammatory and allergic reactions. It has also been shown to be successful as a “mild” alternative to hydrocortisone.

Sunflower Oil Concentrate which contains a high level of unsaponifiable compounds (phytosterols, tocopherol and other valuable skin nutrients) It’s also rich in essential fatty acids (linoleic acid) which contributes to the maintenance of epidermal skin barrier and calms irritated skin. This makes it suitable for ezcema and rosacea prone skin.

Scientific Data

In Vitro

• Nips inflammatory processes in the bud – formation of inflammatory signalling substances is markedly reduced.
• Reduces allergic reactions – DEFENSIL®-PLUS reduces the degranulation of basophils thus reducing allergic reactions.

Clinical Study

• Reduces tissue damage resulting from mosquito bites- SOS-treatment with DEFENSIL®-PLUS relieves the intensity of Mosquito bites by 35 % (in-vivo study).
• Soothes the skin after shaving and epilation (in-vivo study).
• Protects and regenerates the damaged skin barrier (in-vivo study).
• Improves the quality of life of those suffering from atopic eczema (in-vivo study).

D'Orientine™ S Clinical Studies:

In a clinical anti-ageing study collagen 1 synthesis showed an increase of 28%. Skin showed a better-preserved structure with greatly reduced signs of cellular damage and stress with reductions in oedema, chromatin condensation and apoptose.

• Collagen 1 Synthesis: Cell culture: human fibroblasts Product application: Active ingredient 1% Application time: 24 hours Evaluation: Immunoblotting.
• *DHEA like activity: Culture models: ex-vivo human skin Product application: Placebo cream, DHEA 1%, active ingredient at 2.5% Application time: 5 days Evaluation: H&E staining.
• During the anti-wrinkle clinical study, the depths of wrinkles on the volunteers were reduced by a total of 27.6% with an individual wrinkle depth reduction of 3.52%.
• D’Orientine™ S, Type: double blind clinical study Subjects: 10 healthy female volunteers, aged between 46 and 58 Product application: active ingredient at 2.5% in a cream, placebo cream Treated zone: eye zone area Application time: 5 weeks Evaluation: pictures, silicon replicas, statistical analysis.
• The antioxidant clinical study found that there was a 65% reduction in lipid peroxidation, which is a key preventative of cell damage. There was a 66% increase in manganese superoxide dismutase, which is the first line of antioxidant defence and a vast 85% increase in catalase activity, which reinforces the natural antioxidant defence system of the skin.

*Lipid Peroxidation: Cell culture: human fibroblasts Product application: Active ingredient 1% *Application time: 24 hours UVA: 4 J/cm2 Evaluation: spectrophotometer.

*mN SOD activity: Cell culture: human fibroblasts Product application: Active ingredient 1% Application time: 24 hours UVA dose: 4 J/cm2 Evaluation: electrophoretic MnSOD activit.

*Catalase activity: Cell culture: human fibroblasts Product application: Active ingredient 1% Application time: 24 hours UVA dose: 4 J/cm2 Evaluation: spectrophotomete.

D'Orientine™ S - Date Palm Kernal Extract

Phoenix dactylifera or date palm is native to the Euphrates basin and it grows in a calm, soothing and restful oasis. The Date Palm extract contains 7 compounds that act in synergy to delay the visible effects of aging:

• Phytosterols ~ Improves barrier function
• Phytosteroids ~ Hormone-like activity
• Isoflavones ~ Anti-aging
• Ursolic acid ~ Regenerating
• Policosanols ~Supports neuro-immune system
• Tocotrienols ~ Antioxidant
• Vitamin A ~ Antioxidant

A study published in the ‘International Journal of Tissue Reactions’ showed that date palm reduced the surface area of wrinkles by 27.6% and reduced wrinkle depth of the study participants by 3.52%.

The Date Palm Extract used in our anti-ageing formula ‘Rejuvenate’ is D’Orientine™ S. You can find out more information below about clinic studies using the extract.